The story begins with the birth of a very special child, named Gadla Lalibela. King Lalibela was born in 1162, in a city called Roha (later renamed Lalibela after him). He was the son of Jan Seyoum, the governor of Bugna in Lasta province. His mother's name was Kirwerna, a maid in the employ of Jan Seyoum. When she became pregnant by him, Jan Seyoum became angry and Kirwerna decided to flee to a place called Roha, where she gave birth to Lalibela. It was said that a swarm of bees had surrounded him at his birth, which his mother took as a sign of his future power.
Accordingly, he was given the name "Lalibela", which means "the bees recognize his sovereignty". Because of this prophecy, he was eventually forced into exile due to the hostility of his uncle Tatadim and his brother Kedus Harbe, who was the rightful sovereign. He went to Jerusalem, where he stayed for many years. When he returned to Ethiopia he married Meskel Kibra. However, because Harbe intended to kill him, he was again forced to flee from Lasta with his wife.
Lalibela is said to have seen Jerusalem in a vision and subsequently attempted to build a new Jerusalem as his capital in response to the conquest of Old Jerusalem by Muslim forces led by Saladin in 1187. As such, many features of the city of Lalibela have Biblical features and names, including the city's river, known as the Rover Jordan.
The result was a series of awe-inspiring rock-cut churches, 11 in total, carved directly from solid rock, a mystical cityscape that has stood the test of time. Located at an elevation of approximately 2,480 meters (8,140 feet), the archaeological site includes five churches located north of the Jordan River, five to the south, and one independently located. Tunnels and trenches connect the churches within each group. Biete Giorgis, the eleventh church, is connected to the others by trenches.
In the highlands of Ethiopia, the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela stand as monumental evidence of the depth of the Ethiopian Christian faith. These structures are not just impressive architectural feats; they are charged with symbolic meaning and are central to worship.
The design of Lalibela's churches is a representation of the Holy Land, with clusters of churches symbolizing important religious scenes. For example, Biete Medhane Alem, the largest monolithic church, is associated with the Church of the Nativity. The network of trenches and ceremonial passages is thought to be reminiscent of the Jordan River. There is also Biete Golgotha Mikael, which is believed to contain Adam's grave, and the presence of crosses, believed to be symbols of angels, enhances the sacred nature of the site.
Lalibela remained the capital of Ethiopia from the late 12th century until the 13th century
One last tidbit. The very first Ethiopian restaurant in Belgium was called "House of Lalibela". Sixteen years ago, this small but very cozy restaurant was founded in the heart of Leuven. This restaurant has now closed, but many have followed in its footsteps. Our thanks go out to this pioneer, because Ethiopian cuisine is rightly one to die for. Material for a next blog?
Mamaye.
Leuven
Ethiopian Restaurant & Bar
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